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Soldier Mountain Expedition journal

Pukaskwa National Park, Ontario, Canada

Off-trail backpacking

August, 6-14, 2010

Pukaskwa National Park

Pukaskwa National Park of Canada, also called "Wild Shore of an Inland Sea".

The wild shore is an ancient, rocky landscape, the inland sea is Lake Superior, the largest of the Great Lakes. Together they give Pukaskwa its wild and fascinating scenery.

Pukaskwa National Park's exceptional beauty is revealed in its vistas of lakes, rivers, falls, rugged terrain and northern forest.

The interior is forested with spruce, cedar, mixed with birch and aspen, the soil is blanketed by thick moss. In this wilderness live moose, wolf and black bear. The terrain is hilly, broken by ridges and cliffs, riddled with rock-rimmed lakes

Aboriginal people have lived in this region for thousands of years. Evidence of their presence is fond along Superior's cobble beaches. In the 1880s, the Canadian Pacific Railway was laid north of Superior, bringing commercial logging to a small area near the Pukaskwa River. Today, only remains of cabins recall this thriving industry. The spirit of the wilderness envelopes those who explore this special place.

And... here we are, in the middle of it. Three of us. Michael Neiger, who planned this trip and made it happened, an enthusiastic explorer, took us through the woods, lakes, rivers and meadows. Charles Robertson, GPS geek, fresh trout "supplier" and always happy great fellow hiker. Both of them make an excellent navigation team. Me, Ewa Roszczenko, giving nothing and taking everything what I love most, exploring and walking in the woods with great comrades.

Friday, August 6
Cabin Lake

We met on Friday morning in Batchawana Bay, Ontario. After greetings, breakfast and last logistics of our adventure, we took two cars just in case one will refuse to participate in our extravaganza. We drove a few hours to White River and of course it was time to eat again, time for lunch. I love fish, so I had a fish for lunch.

Now, it was time to find the Road 700, very rough bush road. We didn't know how far we can drive on this road but apparently it took us to the Rein Creek Bridge, but bridge is washed out. We left our two cars, last adjustment, weight our packs, mine was lightest! Great!

And ready, and go. Crossing the creek wasn't difficult, we managed to keep our boots dry. The road to our destination, Cabin Lake, was very pleasant to walk, variety of views, lakes, marsh and ponds with lilies. One pond with lilies reminded me Monet's painting, very beauty.

Cabin Lake was spectacular. There is a cabin there but was closed. We set our camp. There was a huge boulder on the shore of the lake where I cooked my dinner. After dinner this place became our social spot. We enjoyed the incredible view, loon was entertaining us, Charlie was fishing, wind was gone, sky was clear and we observed sunset. Paradise. Later we heard big splash, beaver reminded us this is its territory.

Saturday, August 7
Oskabukuta Falls does not exist

Saturday morning I was able to observe mist and fog on the lake from my tent, very nice. Our destination was Oskabukuta Falls. At the beginning we hiked the Northern boundary of the park, later some parts of bushwhacking were hard, thick bush, hopping over logs and pretty high temperature. Lunch was fast because we were anxious to find the falls.

We hiked in the river, yes, in the water some distance. It was very warm day, so having wet feet was very refreshing. I really enjoyed this walk in the water. We didn't find the falls. We had our camp on the Oskabukuta River. During dinner, Charlie was fishing and we had nice conversation.

Sunday, August 8
Lurch Falls

Ewa Roszczenko of Livonia, Michigan explores Lurch Falls along the Lurch River in the northern reaches of Canada's Pukaskwa National Park. (Photo courtesy of Ewa Roszczenko)

Sunday was one of my favorite days (actually, every day was my favorite) Destination Lurch Falls.

We bushwhacked through the woods and very interesting canyon (no name) made by two very high rocky walls.

The bottom of it was covered with fragrant moss, ferns and other vegetation. Leaving canyon our navigation team took us to the shore of the river.

It was challenging walk. We had a long lunch break. In this fabulous scenery and silence, we took a midday nap. I absolutely loved it.

Next we bushwhacked through the scenery mixed of huge rocks, trees, ferns, along the river until we reached Lurch Falls.

Absolutely breathtaking. None of us expected to see what we saw. ~ 100 ft falls, wide open area with huge rocks, boulders and water falling down creating pools and jacuzzi.

First, we thought to camp below falls to enjoy a view and sound of water. Charlie already cast.

Michael and I went to explore the top of the falls and the view from there was incredible, hills and valley, so we moved to the top. We were swimming, bathing in water pools and pools with jacuzzi. Delightful time, not realism but a fable.

Monday, August 9
Birch Lake Chute

It was hard to leave falls. But there was more adventure waiting for us on our unmarked pathway. So, we started walking above the stream, turned into the woods, hiking through marsh and florid meadows with all colors flowers. Later, when we reached the road we saw radio tower. From there we climbed the hill and from top saw the lake, it was Birch Lake, our destination for tonight. So, we were swimming, again. We were swimming almost every day. The weather was beautiful, sunny, warm and the water in lakes was not cold. After a whole day of hiking in the bush to jump into lake or to plunge in river is the best reward for the body. It was just awesome. Cooking dinner was our splendid time every evening.

Tuesday, August 10
South Soldier Lake

We left another fabulous place and the plan was to hike to Soldier Lake, have lunch there and climb Soldier Mountain, and spend night on the top. We passed grassy marsh, open areas with very tall grass. It was an extremely hot day, ~90F. Walking through dry, tall grass in this heat was like walking on prairie. On top of this my summer cold symptoms reached the culminating point and with my stuffy nose I felt like fish without water. For one or another reason, Michael decided to change trip itinerary and we bivouacked on Lake Soldier. The place is spectacular. We swam, cooked dinner, Charlie caught trout but we had dinner already, so fish was for breakfast next day. We had more time to rest, relax and enjoyed our leisure time. Michael designed and made his own fishing equipment, so he was fishing. Sorry to say but no success.

There was a loon there, conversed with its echo. Loon doesn't know what echo is, only reacts by its instinct, and instinct told him there is another loon, it was very funny to observe this.

Wednesday, August 11
Soldier Mountain

Ewa Roszczenko of Livonia, Michigan with a "God Bless Soldiers 2010" memorial cross she and her partners fabricated in honor of all soldiers atop Soldier Mountain in the northern reaches of Canada's Pukaskwa National Park. (Photo courtesy of Ewa Roszczenko)

Today, we were bushwhacking to summit Soldier Mountain.

The summit is partially open. It was raining. We set our bivouac atop and were wondering what story is behind the name "Soldier Mountain".

Before the trip I was digging different sources but couldn't find answer. I called the park ranger but he couldn't give me any information.

We were also talking about the war and our troops coming back.

Michael thought it would be appropriate to create some monument in honor of all soldiers and keep it on the summit of Soldier Mountain.

Charlie and I collectively agreed that it was a very good idea. So, we started our project.

Michael constructed cross and carved "God Bless Soldiers 2010" I tried to help him and carved "2010" and what I can say it was very hard.

We installed it in a giant cairn near the summit of Soldier Mountain. Rest of the evening was windy but not rainy anymore.

Thursday, August 12
Upper Lurch River

Michael Neiger of Marquette, Michigan; Charlie Robertson of Middleville, Michigan; and Ewa Roszczenko of Livonia, Michigan with a "God Bless Soldiers 2010" memorial cross and cairn they erected in honor of all soldiers atop Soldier Mountain in the northern reaches of Canada's Pukaskwa National Park. (Photo courtesy of Ewa Roszczenko)

Before we left Soldier Mountain we took a few pictures of the monument which we fabricated and a group photo. It was raining in the morning but later sky was clear and sunny.

Because we already were out of our previous schedule we had to skip East Reverse Creek Canyon and our destination for tonight was an unplanned place.

Bushwhacking brought us to Upper Lurch River and we called this place home for that night. It was very quite place, ridge or high bank of the river, we could hear flies and flying dragons.

Another hot day, Michael and Charlie went swimming in the river. Dinner was late because of high temperature, we were waiting for some cool down. Sunset was spectacular there. After sunset colors on sky were dramatic.

At night, starry sky, looked like glass broken into trillion pieces, it is impossible to see it in city. It took me a couple of hours before I went to sleep. I was able to find Big Dipper and Little Dipper, Polaris, Cassiopeia, Lyra and others. Looking Intensively in the starry sky made me dizzy and I finally fell a sleep.

Friday, August 13
Lurch Falls

We hiked mostly on the pathway, seeing East Reverse Creek Canyon from the distance. I was inconsolable we never made to the canyon, but at least I took a picture of it. We arrived at Louie Lake. Lake with sandy beaches on one shore and rock-rimmed on another. We had lunch on the beach and swam again, as it was nice, peaceful, sunny day. We kept walking along the lake and we fond a boat. Well, it had a whole, apparently we could use duct tape but we decided to walk further and explore more.

We picked Lurch Falls for tonight destination. Falls are magnificent, so we didn't mind to spend night there again. When we arrived at falls, it was raining, so we managed quick camp setting. No swimming. Dinner and we said goodnight to each other. At night, very strong thunderstorm with heavy rain. We were at open area surrounded by boulders, so I had an impression that every thunder was just next to my tent. I managed to keep my tent inside and sleeping bag dry. Charlie did extremely well at his hammock. Michael managed not to roll up into flowing stream just next to his sleeping pad under tarp.

Saturday, August 14
Heading home

Saturday was our last day of adventure and we hiked out the same path what the first day to Rein Creek, to our cars. We took a bath at the creek and started to drive back to civilization. The trip was over. I always have very mixed feeling at the end of every trip. Part of me is happy I am going home and will enjoy doing other things what I also love to do at home, in the city, at work. Another part of me is sad, trip is over, no walking in the woods, back to reality. But... til next TRIP!

So, when we arrived to civilization, we had lunch in small local restaurant. I have never enough fish, so had fish, Michael had burger sandwich and Charlie had salad. We decided to spend some time in Wawa. We were looking for Anderson Fisheries, fishing boat, which will be our transportation to and from Michipicoten Island, backpacking next spring. It took us a few hours to drive and explore Wawa area.

Time for dinner. We all had fish. It was dark already when we said goodbye. Charlie and I made last coffee stop at Tim Horton in Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario. We crossed the bridge on U.S.-Canada border and now three of us were already in Michigan driving home. Michael to Marquette, Charlie to Grand Rapids and I to Livonia.

Regarding Charlie's GPS we drove on bush Road 700 33 miles to start our bush adventure and hiked 42 miles. Sometimes it is hard to explain but this kind of hiking can be very slow, it is not about mileage and time. It is only about being in the woods, in the places where not many people go, if any. Hiking off-trail, bushwhacking reminds me the book "The World Without Us" by Alan Weisman.

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In God's wilderness
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Alaska Wilderness, 1890

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